Let's go to India!! This is a classic two-leg trip, the first a swing around south of Delhi to see legendary wetland hotspots and to absorb the magnificence of the Taj Mahal, followed by an exploration of the forests that inspired Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book. A great mix of wading birds are possible, including the statuesque Sarus Crane, the skulky Black Bittern, two species of jaunty jacanas, magnificent migrant Bar-headed Geese, and many more. We stand a very good chance to see the world’s largest cat, the Bengal Tiger. One always needs luck when pursuing any wild cat, but we’ll maximize our chances.

The magnificence of the Taj Mahal is inescapable. Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1631, in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, it was completed in 1643 at a cost of what today would amount to about $1 billion USD. Now a UNESCO world heritage site, it is often described as the best example of Mughal architecture in the world, and truly is one of humans’ most marvelous creations. There are even some nice birds right around the Taj Mahal, if you can take your eyes off of it. And just beyond, it gets even better.  Certainly a “must-see” on virtually everyone’s list, here we combine it with excellent birding and wildlife sites nearby, including Keoladeo National Park. More often known as “Bharatpur”, Keoladeo National Park offers stupendous wetland birding, with loads of waterfowl and waders. And not too far from there, the Chambal River Sanctuary offers chances for rare species such as Indian Skimmer, Black-bellied Tern, and a prehistoric crocodilian known as the Gharial (all three are endangered species). 

At the geographic heart of India lies enormous Madhya Pradesh (meaning “central province”), the 2nd largest state in all of India. Only slightly smaller than the state of New Mexico, the wooded rolling, shady hills, are broken up by patches of grasslands, meandering creeks, and scattered watering holes. A magical place, and the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book, the tourism industry here is happily growing today, in large part due to Earth’s biggest cat, the Bengal Tiger. At times reaching 600+ pounds and over 12 feet in length (nose to tail tip), India hosts 80% of the world’s total population, and there are more in Madhya Pradesh than anywhere else. 

Nearly one third of the state is cloaked in jungle, a combination of Teak, Sal and Bamboo forest, accented by Mahua, Flame of the Forest, Frankincense, Indian Ebony and many others. Ten different national parks lie within its borders. We’ll base ourselves at multiple sites, as we venture out in hopes of seeing the magnificent cat, while also taking in the many other animals and birds of the area. Waterfowl and waders are likely to be on the move, while the woodlands should host a suite of raptors, including White-eyed Buzzard and Jungle Owlet. We’ll keep our eyes and ears open for the state bird, the Indian Paradise-Flycatcher, and the national bird, the Indian Peafowl, among many others. We’ll need a little luck to connect with a tiger, but our chances are high, and combined with chances for mammals like Chittal, Sambar, Gaur, Barasingha, Barking Deer, Indian Wild Dogs, Leopard, Sloth Bear, and others, we have the makings of an excellent safari. 

After a remarkable tour searching for tigers, world heritage sites, and all the birds of northern Central India, those who are interested can join us on an extension north to the famous Corbett National Park. Jim Corbett National Park was India's first and consists of extensive stands of deciduous forests, as well as grasslands, marshy pockets, a sizeable lake, with rolling hills shaping the horizon. Situated among the Himalayan foothills, Corbett NP hosts hundreds of different species of birds, some of which can be spotted in amazing mixed foraging flocks. Our visit is timed to catch some northbound migrants as well as the growing cacophony of territorial bird song. Pallas's Gull, Great Slaty Woodpecker, Brown Fish-Owl, Great Hornbill, and Plum-headed Parakeet are among the possibilities.

The extension will be based out of the outstanding Jim's Jungle Retreat.

Join us in the jungle!

Adam Betuel, George Armistead + local guides

On your arrival at the international airport in Delhi and after clearing customs & immigration, Adam, George, or a partner will receive and escort you to your hotel.  

Delhi, the capital of India, offers a glimpse of both ancient and modern day India.  The third largest city in India and one of the fastest growing in Asia, it’s rich in culture, always changing with time, and still celebrating its splendid past.  The various ancient ruins seen in the city are silent witnesses to its magnificent history. The city of Delhi is a blend of two different yet perfectly balanced parts, the Old and the New Delhi. With its intricate streets, elegant mosques, forts, monuments, and bazaars that sell a variety of goods, Old Delhi speaks volumes about its Mughal past.  For those arriving early, we can arrange visits to sites in/around Delhi prior to the start of the tour. Night at Hotel Andaz Delhi

One of the largest and most scenic National Parks in India, Kanha is an ideal reserve for both tigers and their prey. The lush Sal and Bamboo forests, the grassy meadows and the curving ravines here shelter a significant population of tiger, but also of Leopard, Sloth Bear, Indian Wild Dog and much more. Kanha’s mixed forests are cut through and across by stretches of meadows, known as maidens. These are great grazing areas. Here we hope to find the Barasingha, a rare deer once far more widespread across the Subcontinent, but now with only scattered isolated remnant populations. Kanha is among the best places to see this species, and the only place to see the southern form (R. d. branderi), which numbers fewer than 1000 individuals. A huge conservation effort has been undertaken to protect the Barasingha here.

Watering holes, ponds and lakes also concentrate birds and wildlife at this season. We’re here at the end of winter, just before the Monsoon season, at what is usually the driest time of year. So birds and animals often are near what water remains. Sometimes we’ll stake out a watering hole, and hope that a tiger might come to drink or bath, and as we watch we might see birds like Cotton Pygmy-Geese, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Gray-headed Fish-Eagle, or Crested Tree-Swift.

Kanha Jungle Lodge, established in 1987 to provide a sophisticated and environmentally friendly experience, is in the midst of a rich Sal forest. Well camouflaged and tucked away in the forest, it is tastefully developed and low impact. Our fantastic hosts know the wildlife here intimately, and always provide a friendly, informal, relaxed environment with lots to observe, understand and learn about conservation in the area. Located right near the entrance gate to the park, we can hear jungle sounds all the time, day or night. It is possible even to hear alarm calls of deer right here, or even an occasional roar of a Tiger.  Most of our time will be in the park at Kanha, but we will take mid-day breaks during both our full days here for lunch and a siesta. Sometimes there are owls on the grounds too and we might set up a black light at night to examine the insect life as well.

4 nights at Kanha Jungle Lodge

After breakfast we drive to Bharatpur (4 hrs). The Keoladeo National Park (or Keoladeo Ghana National Park), was formerly known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in Rajasthan, India. It is still often simply referred to as Bharatpur. Famous as an avifauna sanctuary, it was officially declared a protected sanctuary in 1971 and a national park in 1982. Now a World Heritage Site, the sanctuary was created 250 years ago and is named after a Keoladeo (Shiva) temple within its boundaries. Initially, it was a natural depression, that was flooded, and the park was a hunting ground for the maharajas of Bharatpur. Dating back to 1850, duck shoots were organized yearly in honor of the British viceroys.

After we check in to our hotel, and get lunch, we will head out into the sanctuary. Here we should encounter Nilgai, which is the largest antelope species in Asia, and also flocks of migrant Bar-headed Geese, Lesser Whistling-Ducks, Garganey, countless shorebirds and other wading birds, as we search for the elusive Black Bittern. Night at Bharatpur.

After breakfast, we drive to Bharatpur (4 hrs). The Keoladeo National Park (or Keoladeo Ghana National Park), was formerly known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary in Rajasthan, India. It is still often simply referred to as Bharatpur. Famous as an avifauna sanctuary, it was officially declared a protected sanctuary in 1971 and a national park in 1982. Now a World Heritage Site, the sanctuary was created 250 years ago and is named after a Keoladeo (Shiva) temple within its boundaries. Initially, it was a natural depression, that was flooded, and the park was a hunting ground for the maharajas of Bharatpur. Dating back to 1850, duck shoots were organized yearly in honor of the British viceroys.

After we check in to our hotel, and get lunch, we will head out into the sanctuary. Here we should encounter Nilgai, which is the largest antelope species in Asia, and also flocks of migrant Bar-headed Geese, Lesser Whistling-Ducks, Garganey, countless shorebirds and other wading birds, as we search for the elusive Black Bittern. Night at Bharatpur (Birder’s Inn).

We’ll enjoy one last early morning venture into Bharatpur, traveling by cycle-rickshaw. Then we’ll head back to hotel for a mid-morning breakfast, before undertaking our drive to Agra.

The Chambal River here forms the boundary between Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh, and has many a myth associated with its name. At one time the river was believed cursed, formed from the blood of thousands of animals sacrificed by the ancient King Rantideva, as legend has it. Today among nature enthusiasts it is known more for being the last spot to see several highly endangered species. These include the Ganges River Dolphin, the Red-crowned Roofed Turtle, the unique Gharial, Indian Skimmer and Black-bellied Tern. We’d need some cosmic luck to see all of these species, but the odds are good we’ll encounter a few of them, plus it is a remarkable place to see. Set against a stunning backdrop, framed by the ravines and sandbanks, the calm waters of the Chambal River are best explored by boat. The gentle pace of the river safari should allow us spectacular sightings of the Gharials, Mugger Crocodiles & Ganges Softshell Turtle basking in the sun. Also there are many migratory and resident birds and we’ll try to give ourselves the best chance we can to glimpse a Ganges River Dolphin breaking the water’s surface. Night at Mela Kothi-Chambal Safari Lodge.

Little more can be said about this architectural wonder, which is always the soul raison-de-etre for every tourist's visit to Agra. Built by Shah Jahan, the Taj is a white marble memorial to his beautiful wife Mumtaz Mahal. This monument took 22 years to be completed and was designed, and planned by Persian architect Ustad Isa. Apart from its stunning design balance and perfect symmetry, the Taj is also noted particularly for its elegant domes, intricately carved screens and some of the best inlay work ever seen.

After our morning at the Taj Mahal, we’ll head on a jeep safari for the Sarus Crane Conservation Reserve, a widespread wetland area, interspersed by cultivated fields, where large numbers of the Sarus Cranes breed. Although not a protected area, since 1999 the Supreme Court of India, recognized its importance as a habitat and designated the area a reserve with restrictions on development. A nice variety of wetland birds and raptors are also found here and we should see the cranes as well as a nice variety of other birds.

Later in the day, we'll arrive at our home for the next few nights, Mela Kothi – Chambal Safari Lodge

The Chambal River here forms the boundary between Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh, and has many a myth associated with its name. At one time the river was believed cursed, formed from the blood of thousands of animals sacrificed by the ancient King Rantideva, as legend has it. Today among nature enthusiasts it is known more for being the last spot to see several highly endangered species. These include the Ganges River Dolphin, the Red-crowned Roofed Turtle, the unique Gharial, Indian Skimmer and Black-bellied Tern. We’d need some cosmic luck to see all of these species, but the odds are good we’ll encounter a few of them, plus it is a remarkable place to see.

Set against a stunning backdrop, framed by the ravines and sandbanks, the calm waters of the Chambal River are best explored by boat. The gentle pace of the river safari should allow us spectacular sightings of the Gharials, Mugger Crocodiles & Ganges Softshell Turtle basking in the sun. Also there are many migratory and resident birds and we’ll try to give ourselves the best chance we can to glimpse a Ganges River Dolphin breaking the water’s surface.

Night at Mela Kothi-Chambal Safari Lodge.

Night at Hotel Andaz for those going on the extension

One of the largest and most scenic National Parks in India, Kanha is an ideal reserve for both tigers and their prey. The lush Sal and Bamboo forests, the grassy meadows and the curving ravines here shelter a significant population of tiger, but also of Leopard, Sloth Bear, Indian Wild Dog and much more. Kanha’s mixed forests are cut through and across by stretches of meadows, known as maidens. These are great grazing areas. Here we hope to find the Barasingha, a rare deer once far more widespread across the Subcontinent, but now with only scattered isolated remnant populations. Kanha is among the best places to see this species, and the only place to see the southern form (R. d. branderi), which numbers fewer than 1000 individuals. A huge conservation effort has been undertaken to protect the Barasingha here.

Watering holes, ponds and lakes also concentrate birds and wildlife at this season. We’re here at the end of winter, just before the Monsoon season, at what is usually the driest time of year. So birds and animals often are near what water remains. Sometimes we’ll stake out a watering hole, and hope that a tiger might come to drink or bath, and as we watch we might see birds like Cotton Pygmy-Geese, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Gray-headed Fish-Eagle, or Crested Tree-Swift.

Kanha Jungle Lodge, established in 1987 to provide a sophisticated and environmentally friendly experience, is in the midst of a rich Sal forest. Well camouflaged and tucked away in the forest, it is tastefully developed and low impact. Our fantastic hosts know the wildlife here intimately, and always provide a friendly, informal relaxed environment with lots to observe, understand and learn about conservation in the area. Located right near the entrance gate to the park, we can hear jungle sounds all the time, day or night. It is possible even to hear alarm calls of deer right here, or even an occasional roar of a Tiger.  Most of our time will be in the park at Kanha, but we will take mid-day breaks during both our full days here for lunch and a siesta. Sometimes there are owls on the grounds too and we might set up a black light at night to examine the insect life as well.

After a morning stroll for birds near the lodge, we will bid our friends in Kanha good bye and move on, carrying a packed lunch for the road. We have a five-hour drive to get to Raipur and then catch our flight back to Delhi. We’ll have dinner in Raipur or a later dinner in Delhi depending on flight timing. Night in Delhi.